Staedtler Colored Pencils 24, Printer Paper, Rulers & Pens: What I Learned From $3,200 Worth of Wrong Choices

I started handling office supply orders for our team back in 2017. Thought it would be straightforward—buy stuff, restock, done. By the end of my first year, I'd made eight significant mistakes that collectively wasted about $3,200. The worst part? Most of them were preventable.

One mistake I still cringe at: I ordered 200 units of what I thought was a great deal on colored pencils. They arrived, looked fine on the surface. Then someone actually tried to use them. The colors were inconsistent, the leads broke constantly, and about a third went straight to the trash. That was about $450 down the drain, and I learned something important: there's no single 'best' option for office supplies—it depends entirely on what you're actually doing with them.

So here's a breakdown of four common purchasing decisions, based on where I messed up and what I eventually learned. Hopefully you can skip the expensive part.

The Four Scenarios: Which One Are You?

Before jumping into recommendations, you need to know which category fits your situation. Because the right choice for a design studio is totally different from what a school or a law office needs. I've organized this around four common decisions:

• Choosing colored pencils (specifically, whether a 24-set is enough)
• Picking printer paper (weight matters more than you think)
Selecting a ruler (measurements, materials, and units)
• Deciding between gel pens and ballpoints (it's not as clear-cut as you'd expect)

Let's walk through each one.

Scenario 1: Colored Pencils — Is 24 Colors Enough?

This one stung. Our team needed colored pencils for a mix of office use—annotations, diagrams, occasional design mockups. I saw a 36-color set from a non-Staedtler brand at a great price and thought I was being smart. More colors for less money, right?

The Staedtler colour pencils 24-set I'd been eyeing cost about 40% more. I figured I was saving money. Turns out I wasn't.

The cheap set had two problems: inconsistent color quality (the 'red' wasn't the same from one pencil to the next) and brittle leads that snapped during sharpening. By the time I factored in the waste, the Staedtler colored pencils 24-set would have been cheaper per usable pencil—and the color accuracy was way better.

Here's what I'd suggest based on what you need:

For general office use, education, and basic diagramming:

A 24-color set is usually enough. I know it sounds counterintuitive—more colors seems better—but in practice, a quality 24-set with consistent pigments beats a larger set with unreliable color. The Staedtler colour pencils 24-set is a solid choice here. The leads are resistant to breakage, the color laydown is smooth, and you get a good enough range for most non-professional work. I should add: the color coding on the pencil matches the actual color, which sounds basic but not all brands get this right.

For professional design work or fine art:

Honestly? A 24-set probably won't cut it, regardless of brand. You'll want a more specialized range—Staedtler's ergosoft or premium lines offer better blendability and a wider spectrum. But for office use? 24 is plenty. The mistake I made was buying cheap quantity over quality. Don't do that.

How to decide:

Ask yourself: do the pencils need to match specific brand colors or create professional artwork? If yes, go premium and larger. If no—if they're for diagrams, annotations, or classroom work—a quality 24-set like the Staedtler colored pencils 24 is the sweet spot. You're paying for consistency, not quantity.

Scenario 2: Printer Paper — Heavier Isn't Always Better

This was a mistake I made in reverse. I thought 'premium' paper meant heavier weight, so I ordered 28lb paper for our general office printing. It jammed our printers constantly, and people complained about the stiffness.

Standard printer paper is 20lb bond (75gsm). That's the industry baseline for a reason. It feeds reliably through most laser and inkjet printers, it's enough for double-sided printing without show-through (on most printers), and it costs less than heavier options.

Here's the breakdown based on what you're printing:

For everyday documents, internal memos, and double-sided printing:

20lb (75gsm) bond paper is where you should be. It's what most offices use, and it works. The Staedtler brand actually offers a decent option here—nothing fancy, just reliable paper that doesn't jam. I've learned not to overthink this one.

For client-facing documents, proposals, and important presentations:

Bump it up to 24lb (90gsm). It feels more substantial, it's less transparent, and it handles color printing better. The difference is noticeable when you hand someone a document—24lb just feels 'important.'

But here's the counterintuitive part: don't go above 24lb for general office use. 28lb and heavier papers are designed for specific applications like high-end marketing materials or archival documents. They're thicker, which means your printer's paper path has to handle it, and many standard office printers don't. I wasted about $200 on a ream of 32lb paper that sat in a cupboard for two years before I finally gave it away.

Quick reference:

• 20lb bond = 75gsm — standard copy paper
• 24lb bond = 90gsm — premium letterhead, client docs
• 28lb bond = 105gsm — high-end presentations (check printer specs first)

Scenario 3: Ruler Measurements — Units Matter More Than Material

This is one of those mistakes that seems obvious in hindsight. I ordered a bulk set of rulers for the team, all with imperial measurements only. We're a metric-based office. Nobody could use them.

The ruler measurements question isn't about which system is better—it's about what your team actually works with. Here's how to think about it:

For metric-based teams (most of the world):

Get rulers with centimeter and millimeter markings. That's it. The Staedtler Mars series has a nice plastic ruler with both metric and imperial, which is handy if you occasionally deal with imperial specs. But if your team works exclusively in metric, you don't need the imperial markings taking up space.

For imperial-based teams (US, some engineering contexts):

Rulers with 1/16th and 1/8th inch markings are standard. For precision work, you might want 1/32nd inch markings or even a machinist's ruler.

Here's something I didn't expect: the material of the ruler matters more than I thought. Cheap plastic rulers warp over time, which throws off measurements. Metal rulers (like Staedtler's stainless steel options) don't warp, but they can scratch surfaces. Transparent plastic rulers are great for general office use because you can see what you're measuring.

The mistake I made: I assumed 'one ruler fits all.' It doesn't. I now keep a mix: clear plastic rulers for general use, metal rulers for drafting and cutting, and a couple of specialized rulers (like a 12-inch carpenter's ruler) for specific tasks.

How to choose: First, figure out your primary unit system. Then, think about the surface you're measuring. Then decide on quantity. Don't overbuy—I had 40 rulers nobody could use.

Scenario 4: Gel Pen vs Ballpoint — It Depends on How You Write

This is the one where most people have strong opinions. I used to think gel pens were simply better—smoother, darker, more premium. Then I learned the hard way that's not true for everyone.

I ordered gel pens for the whole team. About half the people loved them. The other half complained that the ink smeared, the pens ran out too fast, or the tip was too scratchy on cheap paper. I'd created a situation where nobody was fully happy.

Here's the real difference between gel pens and ballpoints:

Gel pens: When they shine

• Writing on high-quality paper
• Left-handed writers? Actually, gel pens can smudge more for lefties.
• People who prefer a darker, more liquid line
• Signatures, journaling, and slower writing

Ballpoints: When they're the better choice

• Fast note-taking (less drying time needed)
• Multi-part forms (ballpoints handle pressure better)
• Cheaper or recycled paper (less feathering and bleed-through)
• People who tend to press hard (ballpoints are more forgiving)

Here's the counterintuitive take: ballpoints are often the better choice for general office work, especially if your team writes on a mix of paper types. The Staedtler 430 ballpoint, for example, is extremely reliable—it writes consistently, doesn't dry out quickly, and works on almost any paper. Their gel pens (like the triplus fineliner or the pigment liner) are excellent for specific uses, but they're not a universal replacement.

What I should have done: Instead of picking one type for everyone, I should have offered a choice. Give people a basic ballpoint for everyday use and a gel pen for tasks that need a cleaner line. It costs a bit more upfront, but you don't end up with a drawer full of pens nobody uses.

How to Decide What You Actually Need

If you're reading this and thinking 'okay, but which one should I buy?', here's a quick way to figure it out:

For colored pencils: Ask if color accuracy matters for professional output. If yes, invest in a quality 24-set or higher from a reputable brand. If it's just for casual use, a Staedtler colour pencils 24-set is a reliable baseline—don't go cheaper.

For printer paper: 20lb for everything internal, 24lb for anything that goes outside your company. Don't overbuy heavy paper.

For rulers: Match the unit system your team uses. If they work in metric, get metric rulers. If imperial, get imperial. A dual-scale ruler is a compromise that works for mixed environments.

For pens: Don't force everyone into one type. Ballpoints are better for speed and versatility; gel pens are better for precision and feel. Offer both and let people choose.

Honestly, the biggest lesson from my $3,200 worth of mistakes is this: the best product isn't the one with the most features or the lowest price—it's the one that matches what you'll actually do with it. I wish I'd learned that before my first year of ordering, but hey, at least I documented it so you don't have to repeat my errors.